We’ve been working on becoming part-time Yoopers this summer, spending time at our Bike Ish house and immersing ourselves in local events and group rides in Ishpeming and Negaunee. The goal: Shop, eat, and ride local, plus take advantage of the bike-in, bike-out opportunities on the local RAMBA trails. Several trailheads are only a short mile roll out our door. Even though we are still Trolls (residents of lower Michigan), we’re embracing the UP outdoorsy vibe and leaning into being locals in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.
Ride RAMBA Trails
Most mountain bikers have heard of Marquette and the touted NTN Trail system, rightfully so. Lesser known, but impressive in its scope and terrain is the RAMBA (Range Area Mountain Bike Association) trail system that spans 75+ miles in Ishpeming and Negaunee. So, head west another 15 minutes from Marquette and add in a RAMBA ride on your next visit. It’s rocky, rooty, and rambunctious with a tagline that’s perfectly suited. Ride Twisted Singletrack!
These trails keep on giving; after a 15-mile ride, you’ll feel like you logged 30. Punchy climbs, technical descents, plus there are plenty of scenic views along the way with lots of vertical. Does RAMBA have a reputation? Yup, it’s home to the nationally known, grueling Marji Gesick event, which takes place annually in September. If you like to push limits, add this race to your calendar and “Do hard things,” as they say in the UP.
Iron Ore Heritage Trail (IOHT)
Though RAMBA trails are not ideal for beginners, there’s plenty of chill local routes that incorporate the IOHT (Iron Ore Heritage Trail), the paved through trail that connects to Marquette. Offshoots like the Ranger Loop and the SBT (snow bike trail) are more approachable and less technical, good choices for inexperienced or intermediate riders to tackle.
One of my favorite traditions is to include a pub pedal from the house. Leisurely rides are allowed in RAMBA land. My houseful of guests in June did a slow roll into downtown Ishpeming, continued east on the IOHT to Upper Peninsula Brewing Co., perfectly positioned directly on the IOHT in downtown Negaunee. We punctuated our 8-mile ride with a round of craft brews and snacks before returning home by dusk.
RAMBA Ride Groups
RAMBA and WEST End Ski & Trail host Wednesday night group rides from downtown Ish, at the new trailhead. Plus, feel free to glob on to the Sunday dirt church ride in the morning. Find a ride leader wearing RAMBA or WEST jersey, and they can help you find a group suited to your riding ability. There’s a spicy, medium, and a mild-no drop (D for Dave) group that departs at 6:30 pm on Wednesday. I joined this group ride and picked the mild option led by Liisa. Besides getting to know new routes and trail names, I met a bunch of new pedal pals and other ladies to ride with later that week.
The Strega Nonna Experience
You’ve earned the calories and carbs with time in the saddle. So, put down the pasty and expand your UP palette. (No disrespect to pasties and fresh whitefish baskets, time-honored UP mainstays), but I was surprised and delighted to find an authentic Italian restaurant in Negaunee, called Strega Nonna.
Proprietor Rachael Grossman and her staff at Strega Nonna have queued up a local-tinged gourmet Italian meal experience. Don’t worry, the UP-dress code works; a flannel shirt or jeans will work just fine. My Thursday evening reservation started outside on the patio on a lovely summer eve, with Mark Hammond strumming guitar and sending lyrics across the breeze during the Strega four-course experience. Look him up and find an impressive band resume (Navarro) along with producing accolades that include albums for Carole King. My dinner was exquisite from both a culinary and musical aspect.
Strega Antipasti
To start, the first course was a packed Antipasti plate. Pickled veggies like carrots, onions, beans, and a quail egg were paired with some divine grilled octopus bites. Also, a small sample of a cold tomato soup was paired with a simple cucumber/tomato salad. Simple is not boring at Strega, plus the homemade bread and dipping olive oil were excellent companions. An optional wine pairing also accompanies each course; I’d highly recommend you let your server add this to your experience.
The Primi and Secondi Courses
The Primi (the second course) featured house-made summer tagliatelle pasta laced with fresh tomatoes and basil, topped with grated parmesan. Molto bene, as they say in Italy. I savored each bite and scooped up any remaining tidbits with more crusty bread.
The Secondi (the third course) was a rich and creamy risotto with a unique local garnish. Several Keweenaw strawberries adorned the top of my bowl of risotto alongside dollops of fresh mascarpone cheese. I was getting quite full, but I am no quitter, as a small plate of Saltime Boca arrived paired with a glass of Italian red wine. The literal translation: jump in the mouth. After my first bite, I nodded at the name choice and savored the tender veal bites wrapped in prosciutto, finished with a white wine sauce and paired with roasted new potatoes.
Dolce (Dessert course)
Room for dessert, of course. Though all the choices sounded delightful, I picked a classic favorite, a Tiramisu made and layered in a unique Strega way, laced with chocolate chunks on top. Dig in and enjoy.
Though rolling solo for my Strega meal, I was pulled into the scene, met new friends at nearby tables, and our conversations bubbled up with various reasons to celebrate summer with old and new friends. Happy and full, a late summer sunset was brewing on the horizon. I learned that Strega Nonna is named after an Italian fairytale and a Grandma Witch who can cast a spell to create a magical pot of pasta. Thanks and Grazie, Strega, for such a memorable dining experience; I was indeed happily under your spell.
More Epic RAMBA Rides
June and July were full of fun on two wheels, and I finally feel like I know my way around RAMBA land a bit more. I had a group of trolls (Ben, Anna, Jill, Eric) staying with me in early June who were newbies to RAMBA and requested a guided tour. Besides the evening pub pedal, we tackled an epic ride on the namesake loop. Our five-pack rolled out on a Friday, starting on Bacon Strip, then to a quick hike-a-bike to the Two Lookouts vista. Dialing it down a bit, we rolled into the SBT off Malton Road, pedaled along Fence Line to No Boots, to Humpty Dumpty and the stairs section, and into Negaunee for snacks, a pit stop, and a history lesson at the Jackson Mine Park.
We continued on the Epic Loop toward Luge Run, and Flannel Shirt worked on keeping the rubber side down on technical climbs and descents. It was a challenge, even for experienced riders, so we took it slow and regrouped at intersections. Ben and Eric rode ahead, determined to complete the full Epic Loop, while Anna, Jill, and I plotted a cut in at the Nordic Ski complex to easier terrain from the HOB to finish our loop. I routed us to WEST End Ski & Trail in downtown Ish for souvenirs and then to the Ish Creamery for a sugary reward for 18 miles. No surprise, the girls had to retrieve the boys at UPBC after their ride, thoroughly depleted and thirsty.
I continued my epic riding with some locals on a lazy and humid Sunday. This time Liisa, Katelyn, Margaret and Al were my riding buddies for a 12-mile rip starting from the HOB. We took turns leading, and leapfrogged one another as we tackled Epic’s Dirty Mary, Luge Run and Flannel Shirt again. Climbing was the keyword, with some rocky and rough downhill rewards. We laughed and sweated together, shouting encouraging words as we successfully navigated rock drops and punchy climbs. After popping out of the dense canopy, we pedaled the dirt road to the IOHT back to the HOB.
Local Eats & Markets
When not in the saddle, I filled my calendar with meet-ups at local restaurants and forays around the local street and farm markets in Negaunee and Ishpeming. Besides the Strega Nonna dinner, I’d suggest checking out The Mather Inn in Ishpeming for cocktails or dinner. The historic building and patio are reason enough to grab a table and chill. Bonus: the flatbreads, appetizers, and craft cocktails are spot on for summer. Or, for pizza lovers, try the locals’ fave at Congress Pizza.
For fresh finds and farm veggies, there are weekly markets from June – October, that feature local artists, crafters, and farms in both Negaunee and Ishpeming. Negaunee’s market is Wednesday from 4 – 6 pm, and Ishpeming holds their version on Thursdays starting at 6:30. In the Ish, Main Street is closed off, and there are plenty of booths to peruse, tasty food truck options, fresh baked goods, squeezed lemonade, and live music. Bring a lawn chair and hang out for a while. I bought locally made sourdough bread and stocked up on veggies like greens, tomatoes, and peppers.
Bike Events and Fall Colors
You’ve heard about Midwest nice, but UP nice is another notch up the ladder. Making friends is easy in the UP, and if you like a good story or local insight… neighbors, local bike riders, and restaurant owners will bend your ear. The vibe is unhurried and authentic, and making connections is natural if you leave your busy troll traits below the bridge. I met a new riding buddy on the Wednesday RAMBA ride; Margaret’s patch on her hip sack reads, “Bad decisions make great stories!”
It’s August already; time to make your way to Michigan’s top and better half. There’s room to ride in the UP and a stacked schedule of bike events to tip the adventure scales. Plus, the black flies are gone, and Lake Superior is warm enough for a dip. Marji Gesick (Sept. 18-20) race prep is in full swing, and fall colors are just a month away.
See you in the Yoop for a pedal, a toast, or a post-ride meal!
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