Michigan’s Upper Peninsula is 1/3 of the state’s land area, but only 3% of the state’s population lives here. Being a troll (someone who lives below the Mackinaw Bridge), I crave the vastness and room to roam in the upper, and like most outdoorsy types, Josh and I love the more rural and rugged vibe. The UP features Lake Michigan and sandy beaches on its south shores, and the world’s largest freshwater lake, Lake Superior, dominates the northern coast with a heavy dose of volcanic rock and plenty of elevation for adventure activities.
Bike Michigan’s Upper Peninsula: On this amazing chunk of earth, the UP’s reputation for world-class mountain biking continues to grow. There are two IMBA ride centers: one at Copper Harbor at the tip of the Keweenaw and Marquette area’s Noquemanon Trail network. Plus, the RAMBA trail system in Ishpeming/Negaunee has recently been named a top 10 national destination. Of note, Rock Solid Trails, currently the largest professional trail builder in the world, has made its home base in Copper Harbor. Add that all up, and you can ride over 300 + miles on award-winning trails, with spectacular views of gorgeous, forested topography, plus bonus, great lake vistas.
WEST End Ski & Trail (Stay & Play)
We began our recent UP bike trip in downtown Ishpeming at the West End Ski & Trail stay-and-play vacation rental. It’s a short roll from the door to the bike shop conveniently next to Velodrome Coffee for caffeine-loaded fuel and gourmet sandwiches. The historic downtown is full of reminders from its mining roots, now polished up with updated storefronts, bustling local restaurants like Congress Pizza, and more. Plus, it’s home to Doggie Styles Pet Grooming, which is probably one of the best small business names I’ve heard in a while.
WEST End has become a social hub (now in its 5th year of business and the largest Pivot dealer in Michigan), and you’ll quickly learn that biking is a big part of the communities’ persona. It is way more than a bike shop for service and parts. It’s a place for bike advice or to plot out your ride, grab some gear, and gab with the locals about the upcoming group ride or local races. Also, you’ll learn that you can bike from the shop (or the rental) to RAMBA trailheads, which will lead you to almost 80 miles of punchy climbs, punctuated with gorgeous rocky and rooty technical XC riding. Ironically, they have a Double-black trail named Sissy Pants…definitely not for sissies.
RAMBA (Range Area Mountain Bike Assoc.) is the local trail organization that builds and maintains the terrain. The area also hosts the grueling 50—or 100-mile Marji Gesick, held annually in September. With 13,000 feet of vertical, it is often called the hardest single-day mountain bike race in the country. For those hearty souls who want to test limits, check out Marji and ride RAMBA.
Another win for our group at WEST End is their fleet of Pivot and Rocky Mountain e-bike rentals. Our group of four worked with Spencer and his crew to pick e-powered machines to cover more territory on a half-day guided tour. Josh fawned over his Pivot Shuttle AM. Dave and I got paired with the Rocky Mountain Instinct Plus, which has plenty of power. I tested it out around the block first, experimenting with the speed options: You, Eco, Trail, Plus, and, yes, Ludicrous.
Our group rolled out first to the Iron Ore Heritage Trail to connect with the Epic Loop. With the trail experience under my jersey, I contend it is aptly named. Throughout our 20 miles, Spencer gave us updates and tips on the upcoming features at trail intersections, and Brandon swept from the back. We rode down an old mining staircase, and some of us shot down steep chutes like the Panorama Plunge. We made a pit stop at Jackson Mine Park in Negaunee for protein bars and PBJs. We continued past the Luge Run and rolled over slab rock ridges with epic views of Gunpowder Lake and a Grand View of the Nordic Ski Jump Complex. As we continued the Epic Loop, I discovered giant root rolls and punchy climbs are achievable with e-power.
My advice: Hire WEST End to show you around RAMBA Trails and other UP trail systems, especially if you’re new to the area. Who doesn’t like greatest hits albums? They are adding multi-day and overnight trips with stay-and-play options at the three downtown rentals. Or, if you prefer to rough it trailside, the decked-out van serves as a home base with a sweet camping setup and a mobile kitchen for hearty home-cooked meals.
Copper Harbor Trails Fest
Next stop, Copper Harbor, we traded one epic for another and added a few more key players to our band. Mel and Alex drove over 15 hours from west of Winnipeg to join the adventure. It was Trails Fest time, the annual celebration put on by CHTC on Labor Day weekend. We bunked at a rental cabin in Eagle Harbor, steps away from a Lake Superior beach and an easy drive for several more days of UP riding. Our Trails Fest days were filled with morning cold plunges in Superior, followed by a big biker’s breakfast and strong coffee that led to group rides down Brockway Mountain via the KAC shuttle. Once the racing started on Saturday, we watched the downhill racers bomb down Over Flow. I was positively amazed at the speed and extreme terrain being tackled.
Trails Fest is an MTB mash-up of races (all disciplines from downhill, Enduro to XC, and kids too), with a social hub that includes a beer tent and vendor booths, live music in the evening, and a bunch of people in a very small town celebrating being on bikes. It’s a one-blinking light town with no cell phone service. It’s perfect. There’s one general store (The Genny), one brewery (Brickside), KAC (Keweenaw Adventure Center) for bike rentals and shuttle service, one bakery, a couple of restaurants, several small hotels, and a few campgrounds. Don’t worry about texting your bike buddies; just walk down the main street, and you’ll bump into them.
I loved seeing Copper Harbor through the eyes of our first-timers. Mel and Alex were truly impressed by the Lake Superior views and vibe. Alex, a trail builder himself, gave Copper a very high grade. Each day was a new adventure, learning new trails and downhill lines, just with the added task of avoiding the racecourse. After our warmup day on Brockway, we headed to East Bluff to experience Rock Solid’s new climbing and downhill gravity trails. They offer shuttles too…. you just have to be smart enough to book in advance. So, off we went up Summer School to Magic Carpet; in Mel’s words, “It was the best climbing trail ever.” It’s two miles, though, so patient pedaling is the key to saving your legs for the lengthy downhill romp. After our first rip down Whipsaw and then on Flo’ Rion, Mel announced that her legs were torched from attempting to stand in a ready position that long. “I’ve got no standima,” she explained exasperated. LOL, I agree.
Thankfully, we fit in a cross-country route, a bit less taxing on my sore quads. Steve and Kim led us to The Point Trail access at the end of Highway 41 to follow its curvaceous and rolling single-track route to High Rock Bay. Not much climbing – Yay! We lingered over snacks and the views for an extended break before returning on an out-and-back for a satisfying 20-mile roll. Perpetually tired and hungry, we sought out platters of Lake Superior whitefish or fish tacos at the downtown food truck. The fuel and food helped, but the Spa experience at nearby Mount Bohemia saved my legs for one more day. For only $35 per person, you can experience several saunas (herbal to Himalayan salt), a eucalyptus-infused steam room, a cold plunge pool, and a bubbly hot tub. Our tip is to start hot with the sauna, switch to cold, warm back up in the hot tub, and finish with some steam.
East Bluff Bike Park & Rock Solid Trail Contracting
After the revelry of Trails Fest faded, we spent Labor Day Monday exploring East Bluff and Rock Solid’s new gravity trails, the skills park, and my new fave, Blue Jay Picnic jump line. The first touches of Autumn color were popping out while we pedaled around the new campground area and skills area. For our next visit, I have my eye on the camper cabin for an ideal bike-in, bike-out experience. The campground currently has 24 first-come, first-served campsites tucked in a gorgeous deep green hardwood forest. The camper cabin (more in the works for 2025) is available to reserve ahead of time. E-bikes are also welcome; more gravity trails are planned, along with a unique post-ride gathering spot called the Hobbit House.
East Bluff Bike Park is Rock Solid’s new signature experience in Copper Harbor; it shows off over 500’ of elevation, ridiculous views on top of Weathertop, and a place to rest in the aforementioned campground. It’s all connected to 7+ gravity trails from approachable intermediate blue (Whipsaw) to gnarly expert tracks laden with Lake Superior steep rock chutes. And, yup, more on the way. Josh confirmed Citrus Tech and Dueling Banjos will make your legs tremble, and your face will hurt too, from smiling. Take advantage of the shuttle service; you will need all your strength and “standima” to rip down the giant rock rolls, churn around berms, and grab some air on the sculpted jumps and tabletops. It’s a wild and rocky rollick….once you ride Rock Solid trails, it’s hard to go back. Time to make plans to bike Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.
Photo Credit: Rock Solid Trail Contracting
We eventually racked the bikes and put away the helmets and sweaty gear. On our last evening, post-ride, in true UP style, we plunged into Lake Superior in lieu of a shower and changed in the car into our best flannels and jeans (an Upper Peninsula tuxedo). We had five minutes to spare to make a 6 p.m. reservation at Harbor Haus with Lake Superior views.
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