The last time I was in Charleston, SC it was 1992. I was a graduate student and volleyball coach for Winthrop University, in town, to compete against the College of Charleston. Some 30 years later, I can vouch that the city has staying power. The low country and southern charm vibe still exists. It clings to the town, the streets, and the beaches…..like the Spanish moss on a giant live oak tree.
A Spring return trip became a fortuitous reality thanks to a client tradeshow in North Charleston. The Charleston low country served a sweet mix of seafood delights, surf, sand, swamps, ocean scenery, and sweet tea. I soaked it all in, remembering the pace and the “hey y’all” greetings. I’ll stick to some highlights from our low-country adventures to tempt you to visit. The first priority is to create a culinary itinerary. Next, take advantage of activities on or near the ocean, the beaches, and endless waterways. And, finally, don’t wait 30 years to go back and visit.
Culinary Musts (Eat & Drink Charleston, SC)
The best accompaniment to any meal in Charleston’s low country is southern-brewed sweet tea. This staple is really sweet, so my tip is to ask for a half and half (half sweet, half unsweet). Another staple that really brought me home was amazing flaky buttermilk biscuits. OMG. Try Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit in the downtown City Market or Vicious Biscuit for take-out or on the go. We made a point to order fresh seafood or fish at every dinner. Local standouts included the She Crab soup, shrimp, and grits, or grilled Redfish (Red Drum) with a Cajun cream sauce.
Hit up Shem Creek for a hopping variety of bars and restaurants along the creek. Watch the dolphins play in the channel or the pelicans dive for fish, all while savoring a fresh catch dinner. If you end up eating or drinking too much, grab some sunset steps on the nearby boardwalk, giving a nice vantage point to Charleston Harbor.
We dined at Shem Creek Crab House and had a great meal at LoLa’s in the Park Circle area. In Charleston, the food will make you feel fancy, but shorts and flip-flops are acceptable dinner attire. For craft beer enthusiasts, Holy City Brewing is a must-stop Wed. – Sun. They feature a seafood raw bar (oysters, peel-&-eat shrimp, and fresh catch fish dip). If you need a seafood break, belly up at Lewis BBQ for a southern twist on ribs, brisket, and all the meats. The tangy coleslaw, potato salad, and green Chile corn pudding were exceptional sides.
Charleston, SC: Low Country Outdoors
There are endless amounts of water, bridges, rivers, harbors, saltwater marshes, and swamps, all ever-evolving with the tide. Don’t be a landlubber in Charleston; get out on the water for a charter fishing tour or kayak with the dolphins near Folly Beach. If you prefer more chill options, grab a beach chair and recline, a good book in hand with ocean views. Also, a classic choice is to shop the city market or stroll around the Broad Street historic district and get lost in the gated gardens and secret walkways full of ghosts from the circa 1600s.
Beach Bums (Sullivan’s Island and Folly Beach)
We chose beach time at Sullivan’s Island and Folly Beach, equally beachy, sandy, and scenic. Allow plenty of drive time, there’s no direct route in the low country around islands and bridges to cross vast expanses of harbor and intercoastals. Sullivan’s seemed a fave for kiteboarders, taking advantage of the winds and shallows. Folly is for surfers and fishermen who can cast and catch right from the pier. Either beach area is stocked full of walkable bars and restaurants, with amazing palm-adorned patios and picnic tables. No shirt, just a bikini top and flip-flops, no problem.
Saltwater Marsh Paddle
No one in our group had much stamina for sitting around, so we opted to get a closer view of Charleston’s Sea creatures. We booked a 3-hour self-guided paddle with COA (Charleston Outdoor Adventures) near Folly Beach. The private launch site gets you immediately into the saltwater marshes. We paddled around shipwrecks and giant seabird nests and stayed away from the banks full of what the locals call Fluff Mud and plenty of sharp oyster shells. I stayed safely on my kayak while the birds put on a show for us; we watched egrets, herons, osprey, and skimmers scoop up dinner by the beak fulls. On the return paddle, the highlight was watching dolphins feed and surface around us in the shallow inlets. Wildlife viewing galore.
Catch a Shark
Dolphins and seabirds were super sweet, so why not add some sharks? For more time on the water, we booked a half-day fishing charter to catch Redfish. We had already “caught it” for dinner on several occasions, adorned with a spicy cream sauce. Our captain motored us out to the harbor and set us up in a spot, trolling around with four poles baited and ready. Within 30 minutes, there was plenty of action. Steve was the first to pull in a sharp-nosed shark, and I followed suit. Kim battled the biggest shark, a 65-lb fighter.
All of these were unhooked and sent back to seek other food sources. So, with only the sharks biting, we tried our luck under the shadow of the giant Cooper River bridge. After a few nibbles and plenty of lost bait, the Redfish remained in the harbor for the next lucky fisherman or woman.
Magnolia Plantation and Gardens
History is not dusty and dull in Charleston, and a plantation visit is a unique addition to a visit. The Magnolia Plantation & Garden is now home to endless gardens, a bamboo forest, swamps, and rows of gorgeous live oaks with the signature moss clinging to the branches. We added more wildlife spotting on our stroll through the grounds: The walking or bike paths flank the swamps where alligators roam and surface for feeding time. Also, the resident peacock will likely walk by if you’re near the café to put on a feathery show. It’s an idyllic setting and worth booking a guided tour if you have extra time.
Thanks, Charleston, SC for the sweet eats and the sweet vibes on land and water. I promise not to wait too long to come back and see y’all!
0 Comments